Searles Art

Metal Wall Sculpture - Metal Art Weavings - Abstract Acrylic Paintings - Bubble Art Photography

Rotating Triangles - Instructions

Day One & Two

1. Cut out 3 – 55.5/side triangles from one 4'x10' sheet of 0.21 copper.
2. Take one triangle, measure the midpoint of each side, and draw connecting lines to the opposing apices, using a thick black Sharpie marking pen
3. Set the triangle down flat on a flat array of bricks and, using the oxy-acetylene torch with a #5 tip, melt brass along those black lines, being careful not to burn/blow a hole in the fragile, red-hot copper
4. Put the bricks on end, lay the triangle on these and, using a rose-bud tip on the back, flame the copper until it’s all pretty black on the front, then wash it off with the hose and drip dry
5. Set the triangle back up on the bricks, sprinkle on a 50/50 blend of flux #31 and salt, apply salt heavily in other places, then reflame with the rosebud tip, wash off, dry
6. Redo until the patina is appealing when wet
7. Scrub the back of the triangle with the scrubbee brush, and then walk on it until its reasonable flat. Wash and drip dry
8. Set the triangle on the melamine table and cover it with wet towels overnight – this helps the flux residue to come off
9. Take a 4’x8’ sheet of marine plywood and, using a scroll saw, cut out the backing wood for the triangles – cut as many as possible from the one board
10. Mix up some epoxy, dilute with acetone or MEK, then pour and brush onto the backs of the boards as they lay on a flat surface. Let this set up for about an hour.
11. Mix up another batch of epoxy and add graphite to this – don’t thin. Apply with roller or brush to the backs of the wood triangles. Dry overnight.

 Day Three & Four

1. Examine the surface of the copper triangle carefully for flux remnants and pry off with a plastic tool. Wash and towel dry.
2. Put the triangle on the vacuum table, apply a vacuum using the breather cloth and pound it as flat as possible
3. Remove from the vacuum table and pound it some more to flatten it better
4. Sand the back, solvent clean, then spray on primer – let it sit for 4 hours
5. Apply solvent based DAP to the primed backside of the triangle and the wood base – let it sit until it’s glossy appearing, but no longer wet
6. Using dowels and silicone paper, carefully place the triangle on the wood base, lining it up exactly, then carefully remove the silicone paper and dowels and press in place.
7. Place the copper/wood assembly on the vacuum table, apply vacuum while hammering – how to avoid puncturing the film?
8. Let the copper/wood assembly sit overnight

 Day Five & Six

1. Trim off all excess wood and rasp and sand the edges until finished
2. Measure off the midpoints of each side, then using a silver/white/gold marker, connect the midpoints to the opposite apices
3. Along these lines, measure off each distance (e.g. 2.5”, 3”, 2”)
4. Using an awl, press the point of the awl into the copper at each mark
5. Using a 1/16” drill with the Dremel, drill holes at each awl mark
6. Set the triangle up on the scroll saw and cut out each part
7. Using water-based DAP contact cement, repair the gluing of each piece, as necessary

Day Seven & Eight

1. Cut three small  triangles from the marine plywood  – use the center piece as a guide for size - and glue them to the underside apices of the largest triangle using water-based DAP. Clamp for several hours before finishing
2. Rasp and sand the inside and outside edges of each piece, using hand and power tools
3. File all four outside edges using a fine, single-cut file
4. Fill all holes as necessary, using exterior-grade wood filler, then resand
5. Prime the edges using an oil-based primer
6. Paint the edges black, using a low-glass, oil-based black paint
7. Let dry overnight

 Day Nine & Ten

1. Using water-based DAP contact cement and 1-1/4” screws, assemble the pieces together. Be sure to predrill all the holes. Dress the screws with wax prior to inserting.
2. For the center piece, cut 3 – 6x1/4” strips of copper and drill holes through one end. Put a screw through all 3 pieces of copper and attach to the center underside of the smallest piece.
3. Fold the copper strips inside and lay the smallest piece on the next one. Position, then tape in place with package sealing tape.
4. Protecting the center piece with plastic, flip the whole assemblage over, position the copper strips where they won’t be seen from the front, then attach them securely with screws to the underside
5. Attach mirror hangers in the two highest corners. Attach 3 small bumpers to the back of the lowest corner.
6. Flip the piece back over to the front and do any touch-ups necessary to the edges.
7. Clean all black off the copper
8. Sign the piece with a gold marker pen, then spray the signature with some dry spray from the Krylon can – let it dry a few minutes
9. Carefully and thoroughly Krylon spray the whole piece – let it dry 3-4 hours in a warm place, preferably overnight.

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